Frameless Shower Screens

For frameless screens, 8mm toughened glass suits most doors and enclosures, and 10mm is commonly used for walk-in and wet room panels that stand with little support. Thinner glass is used in framed enclosures where the frame does some of the work. We recommend a thickness at survey based on the panel size and how it is fixed.

A made-to-measure screen fits the space exactly, which matters where walls are out of plumb, ceilings slope, trays are non-standard or the opening is an unusual width. Off-the-shelf enclosures rely on adjustment profiles that can leave wide gaps or visible frames. Bespoke glass follows the real shape of the room and keeps sealant lines neat.

Your screen should be measured once the walls are tiled and the tray or wet room floor is finished. The glass is made to follow the exact angles of the finished surfaces, and tiles, adhesive and trims all change the dimensions. If you are mid-renovation, we can advise on fixing positions and backing before tiling starts.

A well-designed frameless screen contains spray effectively, but it is not completely watertight like a sealed enclosure. Leaks are prevented by the right panel length, a properly falling floor or level tray, drip and sweep seals on doors, and neat silicone on fixed edges. Shower head position matters too, so we look at it during the survey.

An easy-clean coating makes water bead and run off, so limescale and soap marks build up more slowly and wiping takes less effort. It is most useful in hard-water areas. It does not replace cleaning, and its life depends on using non-abrasive products, so we give you the care instructions with the screen.

The simplest habit is to squeegee the glass after every shower so water does not dry on it. Clean weekly with a mild, non-abrasive bathroom cleaner and a soft cloth, and rinse well. Avoid scouring pads, powders and strong descalers, which can scratch coatings, dull hinge finishes and break down silicone seals.

Most shower screens are fitted in a single visit once the glass has been made, which usually takes a couple of weeks after measuring. The silicone then needs time to cure, so you should wait before using the shower, and we tell you how long on the day. Your quote confirms the expected timescale.

The main cost drivers are the number and size of panels, glass thickness, the type of hinges, clamps and bracing, and any shaped cuts for sloping ceilings or trays. An easy-clean coating, low-iron or satin glass and special hardware finishes add cost. See the guide prices for typical ranges, and your written quote fixes the price.

Yes, provided the hinges and brackets fix into solid backing. On stud or plasterboard walls that usually means timber noggins behind the fixing points, or suitable heavy-duty fixings where noggins were not fitted. A heavy glass door on weak fixings can drop or pull away, so we check the wall during the survey.

A chip on the edge of toughened glass can weaken the whole panel, because the surface is under stress and damage at the edge can lead to sudden breakage. It is safer to stop using that door or panel and have it replaced. We can remake it from the original measurements or a fresh template.